’08 saw my surfing regress after 5 years of incremental growth. Advancing age, injuries (phony & legitimate), and the economy share some blame, but my inability to fan the stoke is undoubtedly the root. Not sure if I surfed enough days last year to maintain my union card. Unacceptable.
Poor board management has left me with a 6’0 quad fish to chase winter swells on. The surf dandy charges sting, but not as much as waveless sessions at my favorite beach breaks. Picture me being bounced around the soup after another drop only ride to the impact zone. Sorry guys, I’ll get out of the way when I can.
“The key to getting better as you get older has nothing to do with desire, and everything to do with joy.” Derek Hynd
Another dose of cold annihilation please.
